After my prolonged absence
during my deployment, I was
ready to spend some quality time with Kelly, traveling around Europe.
On two separate weekends, we ventured west into the Low Countries.
We also visited the ancient Roman city of Trier. Here's what we saw.
Bruges
Bruges, or Brugge, is
a beautiful city, shot through with canals and picturesque streets.
The city is surrounded by canals, to the extent that it's almost like a
big moat. Much of the city consists of low buildings, but the skyline
is pierced by a few imposing towers: the bell tower (from which old and
refreshingly contemporary music fills the town square), the city hall,
and the Church of the Holy Blood all tower above the rest of Bruges.
But the towers aren't what makes Bruges special -- it's the canals that
run throughout the town. We were fortunate in that we were there
during beach season; most tourists seemed to be at the beach, and we had
Bruges almost to ourselves at the height of summer! It was a bit hot, that
much was true, but our hotel offered air conditioning (a luxury in European
hotels!) to make up for it. We also took advantage of the excellent,
excellent Belgian beer - not pictured is our visit to Lindemans, makers
of tasty lambic beer (no brewery tour, but at least they sold by the case).
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Damme
A few miles notrh of
Bruges lies the small, medieval town of Damme. Formerly a fortified
area, sleepy Damme is much smaller than it used to be; its canals used
to surround a six-pointed fortified town with casemates, but the sharp
fortified corners have rounded out with age and the few fortification remaining
are now bat sanctuaries. The cathedral has lost its glory over the
years as well. Built when Damme was prosperous, Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk
(Our Blessed Mother Church) was a proud Gothic structure. When Damme
fell on harder times, the church was too expensive to maintain; the spires
on the tower were removed, the nave was shortened by half, and the
rest of the church was dismantled. The spiral staircases inside the
tower are claustrophobic (especially when climbers and descenders meet!),
but the view from the top is well worth the €1 admission.
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Ghent
Like Bruges, Ghent was
a rich town five hundred years ago, thriving on textiles. The "Three
Towers of Ghent" are fixtures of its former glory: The focus
of our visit was Gravensteen Castle. Gravensteen was built in Ghent
in 1180 for Philip of Alsace, count of Flanders from 1157 to 1191.
The castle was continually expanded for approximately 200 years, then abandoned
in the 14th century. It was then converted into a prison, then in
the 1800s it became a textile factory. The castle was partiallt dismantled
in 1887, then restored in 1917 and turned ino a museum. After hanging
out in Bruges and Damme, we found Ghent to be a little too much of
a city for our liking, but the castle was a nice treat.
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of Ghent |
Amsterdam
I wasn't sure how much
I'd enjoy Amsterdam. I'm glad to report I was very pleasantly surprised.
The city is gorgeous, very fun to walk around. We ended up seeing
great art exhibits at the Van Gogh Museum and Rijksmuseum, toured the houses
of Rembrandt and Anne Frank, took a canal boat tour, ate over 20 dishes
at the Sea Palace floating Chinese restaurant, and generally had a great
time.
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Red Light district |
in the Red Light district. |
Drempels! |
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EVER! |
Trier
Like other German cities,
such as Wiesbaden and Baden Baden, the baths were what drew the Romans
to found the city of Trier on the Mosel River. Trier had its start
as a Roman military camp, but by the 4th century A.D., it was important
enough that Constantine ruled the Western Roman Empire from here.
After the Romans, the city continued to be a lesser seat of power in the
Holy Roman Empire; the histories of many outlying castles begins with "Founded
by the Archbishop of Trier..." However, it was the Romans who built
Trier, and their legacy lives on the strongest in its architecture today.
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Luxembourg
Although we had originally
planned only to go to Trier, we realized that we were right on top of the
Luxembourg border and that we had seen the main sights we'd panned to see
in Trier. So, without any clue what we'd find, we headed over the
border and followed the signs to Luxebourg City. We were a bit nervous
at first, as all we were coming across were boring office parks.
Soon, though, we were in the old part of the capital, which was once part
of a fortified citadel that was called the Gibraltar of the North.
So threatening were the fortifications that, after the Austro-Prussian
War, the 1867 Treaty of London dictated that the city be stripped of the
majority of its walls and casemates and that Luxembourg overall become
a neutral power. Only 10% of what existed before 1867 remains today,
which is a testamen to how much there was before.
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All content © 1998 - 2006 Christian L. Deichert. All rights reserved.