As with my ghost town pages, so went my cliff dwelling and rock art page. First I had so many rock art photos that I had to split them off by themselves. Now I have so many cliff dwelling and pueblo photos that I need an additional page for them. At the time of this writing, though, I only have 2 more months before I move to Germany, so I think this is the second and last page.
I may add more extensive histories and descriptions of these sites in the future, but for now, I hope these photos suffice. Some of these photos appear elsewhere on my site, but for the most part I have tried to move photos here rather than duplicate myself.
Ghost
Towns Part 1 - Part
2 - Part 3 - Part
4
Ghost
Forts - Rock Art -
Cliff Dwellings and Pueblos
Part 1 - Part 2
Canyon de Chelly National Monument
Although humans have lived in Canyon de Chelly for around the past 5,000 years, like many other sites in the area, the complex cliff dwellings and pueblos in the canyon were not built until around 1200 A.D., when the Anasazi, or Ancient Puebloans, grouped together and constructed permanent, defensible homes. Around 1300, the Ancient Puebloan culture gave way to the Hopis, who in turn were pushed out by the Navajo around 1700. The Navajo endured raides from Ute Indians and Spanish colonists over the next 150 years, but they were always able to retreat into the canyon, the Tsegi, or spiritual home, where the Navajo believed that Spider Woman protected them from her home on Spider Rock. In 1846, what was Mexican territory became part of the United States, and the Navajo were promised peace. This promise was broken by Colonel Kit Carson, who, under orders from the territorial commander, drive the Navajo from the canyon in 1864 and forced them on the Long Walk, a 300-mile forced march to Fort Sumner, New Mexico. After four years of imprisonment, the Navajo were allowed to return to Cahyon de Chelly, where they remain today.
This park is
hands-down one of the most interesting places I have ever visited.
I have visited several parks that contain natural wonders and several more
that exist only to preserve Native American ruins, and there isn't much
crossover between the two. Canyon de Chelly is a magnificent exception:
it's a natural wonder and home to proceless ruins. Even more fascinating
is the fact that Navajo (who call themselves simply Diné,
or "the people") still dwell in the canyons, sometimes only a few yards
from magnificent cliff dwellings. Photographed November 2003.
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Mesa Verde National Park
Mesa Verde was inhabited
by Anasazi Native Americans from around 600 A.D. until around 1300 A.D.;
however, the cliff dwellings that are the centerpieces of the park represent
only the last 75 to 100 years of occupation. I first visited Mesa
Verde in May 1999 as part of a 3-week
tour through the Southwest. I was amazed to find how dramatically
the land had changed since then, since a devastating fire had swept through
the park in the summer of 2003. There was even a red stain on the
cliff overhanging Spruce Tree House, where Forest Service tanker aircraft
dropped fire-retardant slurry to stop the flames from reaching the ruins.
Unfortunately, since I was visiting on the first day of the winter seasoon,
I was only able to tour Spruce Tree House, but I enjoyed my visit just
the same. Last visited November 2003.
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Hovenweep National Monument
Hovenweep consists of
one park split into several units in a chain stretching across the Utah-Colorado
border, not far from Mesa Verde. Like other sites in the area, the
land was inhabited for centuries before Ancient Puebloans built their stone
houses between 1200 - 1300 A.D. There are no cliff dwellings here,
only pueblos; however, the amazing thing was to see not only the diverse
architecture in the units but also how the Anasazi builders adapted each
building to conform with the challenges inherent in their selected sites.
A prime example is the Boulder House, located in the Holly Unit.
This house is grafted almost seamlessly to the top of a boulder in the
bottom of a small canyon. Visited November 2003.
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Yucca House National Monument
Yucca House was inhabited
by Ancient Puebloans from approximately 1100 - 1300 A.D. The tiny
11-acre park sits in the wide valley immediately west of Mesa Verde and
may be the least developed piece of property under the care of the National
Park Service. There are no signs to alert tourists of its existence;
you only go there if you know the way. At first, I was disappointed
by the lack of visible evidence of structures at the site; the ruins remain
unexcavated and, save for the single standing wall stabilized in 1964,
the entire site looks like a mound of mesquite bushes. Then, I looked
around and saw the potsherds scattered everywhere and realized that the
beauty of Yucca House is that it's been untouched rather than rebuilt.
Meanwhile, the Park Service is playing it safe: "Yucca House will persist
as an undeveloped archeological reserve until the benefits of research
outweigh any potentially destructive methods applied." Visited November
2003.
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Turkey Creek Cliff Dwelling
This remarkably intact
Salado structure is located at the east end of Aravaipa Canyon, near Safford,
Arizona. Salado farmers built this structure around 1300 A.D. and
inhabited it on and off for the next 150 years. The canyon was inhabited
by Apache for hundreds of years until they were collected and placed into
reservations in the late 1800s to make way for white settlers. Photographed
April 2003.
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These photographs © 1998 - 2006 Christian L. Deichert. All rights reserved.